Roma: not the tomato

Living in Portugal gives quick access to much of Europe. We recently spent a week in a palace-turned-hotel in Rome. Elegant. Huge. Stately. But before you imagine us in luxury, I must mention that we stayed on the top floor (5th) in a tiny room without a window (but a large skylight!) in a former palace storage attic. But even we attic-dwellers were allowed access to elegant sitting areas and could take breakfast in the former palace ballroom.

When you think of Rome, do you think of Michelangelo, Titian, and Rafael?  Or perhaps the Sistine Chapel, the Pantheon, and the Colosseum? Or maybe your mouth is tasting pasta and wine. Well, I want to share a few other impressions.

First, some quirky statues that caught my eye.

If your first thought of Rome was about an Egyptian pyramid, you win!  Built around 18-12 bce as a tomb for Roman ruler Cestius, it stands 29.6 m2 at the base and 37m high. It is surrounded by lots of traffic, a major train station, and a cemetary.

On a walking tour, our historian guide Marcelo spoke of two strategies that Roman rulers applied to gain the allegiance of the people. Some Roman leaders gave rights and benefits to the citizens to stabilize the society and gain the people's allegiance. Other leaders intimidated and oppressed the populace, instilled fear of a perceived "enemy," and promised to protect the populace from that so-called enemy. The people felt loyal to their "protector"in spite of opporession. Which way is the US headed? Hopefully, we will be building a better society for all rather than just the elite.  Back to Rome....

Foot of an enormous statue

This city has been loved by artists for centuries. We spent quiet time in the "non-Catholic cemetery" where we found the grave of English poet John Keats, who died of tuberculosis at the age of 25. His epitaph conveys his "bitterness of heart" and states "Here lies one whose name was writ in water" (won’t last).  Also buried in this sanctuary of urban peace is Percy Bysshe Shelley, who died of drowning at age 29 with a copy of Keat's poetry in his pocket. Shelley had earlier described the cemetery as "the most beautiful and solemn cemetery I have ever beheld."  

 And, yes, we ate good Italian food in outdoor restaurants on narrow cobbled streets.

One of our waking tour guides, Isuf, focused on the story of the Jewish community in Rome. Over two thousand years of continuous community. Rome had forced the people into a restrictive and isolated ghetto for hundred of years. Then they were wiped out during WW II when all but a dozen people from the Jewish ghetto were slaughtered.

I relent. I include few characteristic Roman archeological sites and art.

Can you smell the roasted chestnuts from street vendors? Warm and tasty on a chilly day.

Tim and I wish you a holiday season focused on love, kindness and compassion.

NEXT: Christmas Eve with our Portuguese neighbors.

Challenge: If you can find three images of Tim, let us know in the comments. Hint: he looks tiny. We love reading your comments, especially if you sign your first name so we know who is saying such kind things!