Returning to a Medieval Village

We like old things: old structures and places that hold stories of the past. Portugal delivers.

We now live 35 minutes from the medieval walled town of Óbidos, home to 3000 inhabitants, picturesque houses, narrow cobblestone roads, and lots of history. We have visited this charming town four times and plan to return soon.

The area around Óbidos has been inhabited since the late Paleolithic (Old Stone Age). Early Celt tribes established a settlement, which later became a center of trade for the Phoenicians. Romans constructed an outpost here, including baths and a forum. Later the region came under the influence of the Visigoths. Sometime after 713 the Moors established a fortification on the mountain.

Photos above: Mo Atkin

Óbidos has been under Portuguese rule since 1114, when the first king of Portugal, Alfonso Henriques, stormed the Moorish castle. More recently, the village was a meeting place for many involved the 1974 Carnation Revolution, when a half-century of an oppressive government was overthrown without violence in a military revolt. Currently it is a popular tourist destination.

Óbidos remains a well-preserved example of medieval architecture and hosts several major festivals. Every July Óbidos hosts a traditional Medieval Festival. For two weeks the castle and the surrounding town recreate the spirit of medieval Europe with dramatic re-enactments (jousting knights!), period clothing, open-air market, medieval food experiences (no forks!), concerts, minstrels, jugglers, dances, and theater.

Last month we enjoyed the first day of the three-week Chocolate Festival. This year’s theme was comic characters, reflected in costumed hosts and massive solid chocolate sculptures.

Portugal's adored characters Asterix and Obelix weigh in at 9100 pounds of solid chocolate and took the sculpture 290 hours to create. We found the sculptor painting the finishing touches of chocolate on the first day of the festival.

The town of Óbidos hosts a major Christmas festival in December with European Christmas markets.

Óbidos also hosts a major literary festival in October. This little town boasts 14 bookstores. In 2015, the UNESCO recognized Óbidos as a City of Literature. Our favorite bookstore is housed in an old church at the top of the main street. Quite the view!

View from the church-turned-bookstore. Photo credit: Mo Atkin

ON THE HOME FRONT

Last night we hosted friends from our Portuguese language class for an evening of conversaton, Portuguese wines, soup, and small bites. For several hours, our teacher and her fiancé politely declined to approach the food on the kitchen counter. Do they think all American-made food is like Burger King or MacDonald’s? (Yes, those stores are both here.) When I finally mentioned to our Portuguese guests that there was traditional calde verde soup, the pair jumped up and cheerfully filled their bowls.

Caldo verde is a favorite comfort food in Portugal. Our first week here last September was quite rainy. Without a car, we had to walk an hour to town to buy groceries and run errands (well, walk errands). Our neighbor Miguel noticed and gave us a ride to town one very rainy day. His wife gave us a pot of caldo verde. I will always associate this delicious soup with the comfort and kindness they offered us.

We study Portuguese in class two nights a week; attend a conversation class once a week; and study on our own almost every day. Slow progress, but we are enjoying the process. In between we go to a local gym and take yoga in the world-famous surfing town of Nazaré just 15 minutes from home.

We have been harvesting chard, kale, and cabbage since our return in late January. Our sweet peas, pansies, and freesias are blooming, delivering heavenly scents and cheerful colors! Tim has worked 2 to 3 hours almost every day preparing more garden beds for our vegetables. We planted 25 asparagus crowns and three artichoke plants a few weeks ago. It may be two years before we can harvest those favorites.

MORE TO COME: amazing street art, a history of our house, beautiful beaches, fabulous azulejos tiles, streets paved with art, European home appliances, Roman architecture, caves, and the coronation of a dead queen (true story).

Thanks to dear friends who keep in touch. We love you!