Life on the Seine

Since childhood I have been fascinated by the variety of ways people create housing and how spaces impact their lives. At the age of four, I was building shelters for fairies out of mud bricks. At 10 years of age, I started drawing floor plans to fit the needs of imagined families. When we were in France last month, the houseboats along the Seine caught my attention.

Rents in Paris are among the highest in Europe. Apartments with a river view in Paris can be very costly.  The barge life offers much more space than an apartment and a huge patio (deck) for less money than a much smaller apartment. Plus that serene river view.

Approximately 1500 families live along the Seine River basin, and many barges are quite spacious by Parisian standards. Portholes just above water level bring light and air into small rooms with low ceilings:  kitchens, dens, bedrooms, bathrooms, and storage spaces on the barges-turned-floating-houses.

You can moor your boat anywhere along the canal or river as long as you do not tie to a tree. In practice, things are more complicated, especially with stays of more than 21 days in one place.

The boats we saw in Paris were clearly there to stay.  Owners had constructed access ramps or stairs from the shore with a security gate. Many have well-appointed patios and lovely container gardens. We even saw a few little greenhouses.  Some are connected to city electricity, but apparently drinking water can be difficult to obtain.

In France, houseboats are not required to have a separate wastewater tank, and many empty wastewater directly into the river. Others require a wastewater tank to be pumped into the town's treatment system. In March 2024, the city of Paris invested in connecting houseboats to the city's sewers to help clean up the river for the Summer Olympics.

Although dilapidated and badly in need of new roof tiles, the boat below charmed me the most with its traditional style, perhaps only because it resembles so many old houses where we live in rural Portugal.

If you dream of buying a houseboat in Paris, be aware that in addition to permits and fees, maintenance can drive up housing costs of the barge life. Before you take the plunge, read more.

Maybe it’s best to try before you buy with a vacation rental. Let us know. We might join you!

Beijinhos* Penelope and Tim

*sweet little kisses on both cheeks