A Very Portuguese Day

Tuesday was a very Portuguese day for us. Tim and I joined 1000s of walkers on a 7-kilometer walk-a-thon through the streets of Alcobaça in celebration of Día da Libertad, April 25.

On this day in 1974, visionary dissidents in the Portugues army liberated the nation from an oppressive dictatorship that had endured more than 50 years. The non-violent coup, headed by career military officers, terminated decades of severe social, political, and economic oppression, and opened the door to a modem democracy of acceptance, tolerance, and kind coexistence.

For decades the populace lived in terror. Journalists, teachers, artists, writers, intellectuals, and dissidents were imprisoned, tortured, and executed as a potential threat to the regime. Almost everyone lived in third-world level poverty. Today Portugal is one of the safest and most tranquil countries in the world. Much to celebrate!

The coup is called the Carnation Revolution because, when civilians took to the streets in support of the military, carnations were put into the muzzles of rifles and pinned onto the uniforms of the army. Our neighbors gave us a bright red carnation in celebration of this special day.

We were among the first 1000 people to arrive for the April 25 walk-a-thon, so we were gifted a t-shirt by the city, proudly declaring Alcobaca as a "Land of Love" or "Land of Passion." The first 1000 walkers also received one of Alcobaça's famous apples. Blue ribbons were pinned to our new t-shirts to signify support for child abuse prevention.

Unlike our Independence Day parades in the US, here we saw no national flags, no political posters, no chanting of slogans, no military bands, and no military marchers. What did experience was a peaceful community warmly celebrating a way of life made possible by the inspiring courage of military leaders – committed to non-violence – who risked their own execution if the coup attempt failed. On April 25, 1974, they delivered the nation into the arms of democracy. We were honored to join the people of our town in celebration.

We highly recommend the film “April Captains,” an excellent and accurate dramatization of the 24-hour coup, available on Youtube with English subtitles. Gripping and uplifting, do not be dissuaded by the opening photos of the 4 civilian victims, tragically shot by the dictator’s forces. The Carnation Revolution is a testament to the will of people committed to the betterment of everyone in the nation.

After our walk-a-thon, we joined our visiting friend, Teri Koenig, for a typical Portuguese lunch in one of the most popular family-owned restaurants in the region. We were the only non-Portuguese people in the restaurant. Pure Portugal.

Continuing to celebrate this very Portuguese day, we joined more local friends for a tour of Quinta dos Capuchos, a local vineyard and winery that has been in the same family for over 100 years. The roots of the vineyard reach back to the 1300’s when local Franciscan monks (Capuchos) first planted vineyards in our region. Weeks ago, Tim and I had discovered one of the Quinta’s excellent red wines featured as a house wine at a favorite local restaurant. How can a house wine be so good? I have since learned that restaurants in Portugal want to serve you a good house wine because that is what almost everyone always orders, and the restaurant's reputation depends on your experience of their food, beverages, and service.

At the end of our tour, I was amused by the contrast of the few elegant furnishings in this stark concrete basement tasting room. Seven of us tasted a number of wines and were served delicious hot hors d’oeuvres after an introduction to the centuries of wine cultivation in our immediate area.

On the Home Front

Tim and I continue to explore sections of Portugual’s 500 miles of beaches. Most are pristine, without any buildings in view, since development is now restricted. Beaches here are for the people, not just for rich hotels. Every beach has its own delightful qualities.

Our grandson will graduate high school in a week. Sadly, we will not be able to attend due to our current visa status. In late October, our daughter Meghan will marry her longtime sweetheart, Jaime. Thankfully, Tim and I will be able to travel outside of Portugal by then. They plan a costume wedding, and we promise to post some interesting photos by late November.

We can call you on our Skype account for pennies to the hour, so send us an email telling us what mornings we could call you. Meanwhile, Viva a Democracia!

Lisbon street art memorial to Captain Fernando Salgueiro Maia and other brave Capitais de Avril.