Cozy Meal in a Secret Restaurant

Today we had another quintessential experience of Portugal: simple goodness, local relationships, and living with enough. And no promotions or marketing.

Monday we mentioned to our landlady that we heard of a restaurant in a nearby village that serves oxtail soup. We had searched every little road in the village in vain. Luisa said that she knew the owner, Maria da Luz from early school days when roads were dirt tracks, there was no indoor plumbing, and they lacked electricity. By Tuesday Luisa had reserved Saturday lunch for ten: Luisa’s family, our other neighbors, and the two of us.

Arriving at the “restaurant” we understood why we never found it. There are no signs. It sits behind a family home. They cook for private groups by reservation only two days a week (or fewer). It’s not really secret; the owners just choose to limit this aspect of their lives. It is another example of how Portuguese people focus on relationships more than riches, and on connection more than consumerism.

We entered the property through a large gate at the street and proceeded to the far end of the enclosed carport.  Double doors crafted from an enormous wine cask welcomed us into a space full of relics of bygone times.

The stone building has a vaulted ceiling with old hand-hewn beams. It was filled with artifacts of the past, including an enormous olive oil jug standing 4 feet from the floor.

The most curious relics were old radios and televisions mounted high on the walls.

In typical Portuguese style, there was nothing pretentious about the space, the meal or the service. It was warm and relaxed. The fireplace in the corner added to the cozy ambience.

The kerosene lanterns were black with decades of soot, reminding us that this region had no electricty until after 1977.

Maria da Luz served the typical covert of cheese, olives, bread, and butter. The main course of the day was bacalhau, grilled cod fish with roasted potatoes and an olive oil sauce. Plus, a side of tomatoes with thinly sliced sweet onions. Dessert was a very popular Pudim de leite condensado, a kind of custard similar to Mexican flan.

We were served two red wines in pitchers that are true "house" wines, fermented and aged on site, which led to some interesting conversation with the owner.

We Americans just have to talk about costs, right? Sigh. Okay, so the bill came to 15 euros per person (about 16 USD). This is typical for the meal in any restaurant. I can imagine many Americans thinking, “Why don’t they charge more for private dining? Why don't they advertise? Why not book more tables? They could make so much more money!” 

What do YOU think?

Left to right: Neighbor Xana. Laura, her friend Matilda, Margarida. Francisco and Rita. Maria da Luz. Landlady Luisa. Neighbor Miguel is taking the photo. Rita is Luisa's daughter. Her son and family live in Lisbon.

Many Portuguese people have talked to us about the work-life balance.  In Portugal spending time with your family provides the foundation of a good life and contentment. They are not compelled to work crazy long hours under enormous pressure just to have more income – because they have what matters to them: good relationships. They have enough.

Love from Tim and Penelope

A few locals joined our group photo (taken by Laura). They were very curious to know how this Portuguese family was dining with foreigners. The fellow on the left is excited to plant his little tomato starts. The giant wooden screw behind the man on the right is an old olive press. The kitchen is through the arch behind the "bunny ears."